Iron Curtain - First repetition after Adam Ondra's FA (2013)
Back in 2013, I sent an email to Adam asking him if he will go to Flatanger during that summer. I was searching for a partner to climb with.
I wasn't expecting any answer, we didn't know each other yet.
The following day, I had an answer, proposing a date to pick me up from the airport of Trondheim.
I booked my tickets, and joined him and Erick Grandelius for a whole month in this beautiful area. It was so exciting, a new beautiful place, a new crag, and the strongest climber of the world showing you the gems in the cave. We just arrived there, and Adam was already jumping onto a project called Iron Curtain.
The line looked so hard and beautiful. It was the first route he crushed during this trip. I had the chance to belay him during the FA, and it was impressive.
He was doing a crazy gaston move for the crux. This was savage.
Making this trip with these guys was so inspiring. It was a turning point in my climbing life. They opened my eyes regarding high level climbing.
I learned so much seeing them moving on the rock. It was different. I was too slow, not enough focus.
Thank you guys for these memories.
This year, I decided to return to Flatanger, without and real fixed objectives.
I’m leaving myself open, and I will try what inspires me.
So I started with Iron Curtain. The rock is so perfect, and the line is so cool.
It took me 14 tries to do it, and 5 climbing days.
I used kneepads to send it. I think the line is easier with kneepads. You can do the crux a bit differently. It's still quite hard, but less demanding on the shoulders, and more of a conventional boulder problem.
Picture EB / Marco Müller
Adam proposed a 9b grade without kneepad. And I am quite sure of this grade if you are not using kneepads.
Regarding the time and investment it took me, it could be more 9a+ using kneepads.
This line is exceptional.
Regarding the next projects, I will start to look for bigger challenges. I don't know if I am ready at the moment for another big project demanding really long term investment. DNA took a lot out of me. I think I need a little time before the next big one. Let's see where my heart is bringing myself, and what's coming up :)